How to Replace Rear Drum Brakes on a 2007–2012 Nissan Versa Hatchback or 2007–2011 Sedan (1.8L Auto) скачать в хорошем качестве

How to Replace Rear Drum Brakes on a 2007–2012 Nissan Versa Hatchback or 2007–2011 Sedan (1.8L Auto)

In this video, I walk you through replacing the rear brake shoes and servicing the drum brakes on a 2012 Nissan Versa hatchback with the 1.8L engine and automatic transmission. 🧰 Tools & Parts Used: 🔹 Snap-on Radiator Hose Pick SGA173A (used for spring removal/install) 🔹 Snap-on SGA175A (shown but not used) 🔹 Similar: Hose Pick Set- https://amzn.to/3UEShJn 🔹 Brake Parts Cleaner - https://amzn.to/4fhr60F 🔹 DAYTONA 6 Ton Heavy Duty Ratcheting Jack Stands, Black 🔹 Similar: VEVOR Jack Stands, 6 Ton - https://amzn.to/3UNsQFv 🔹 DAYTONA 3 Ton Long-Reach Low-Profile Professional Floor Jack with RAPID PUMP, Black 🔹 Similar: Strongway Long-Reach, Low-Profile Floor Jack — 3-Ton Capacity https://amzn.to/3GR9MmM 🔹 Torque Wrench - https://amzn.to/46FfwdO 🔹 POWERSTOP Rear Stock Replacement Drum and Shoe Kit - https://amzn.to/3H6fVeQ 📜 LEGAL DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. These links cost you nothing extra — and help support the channel. Thank you! 🛑 Important Fitment Note: This procedure applies to: ✔ 2007–2012 Nissan Versa hatchbacks ✔ 2007–2011 Nissan Versa sedans As long as they are equipped with rear drum brakes and the 1.8L engine. ➡️ Specifically fits: 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 & 2012 Nissan Versa hatchbacks 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 & 2011 Nissan Versa sedans Note: The Versa sedan switched to a new platform in 2012, with different brake and suspension components. The 2012 hatchback remained on the older (first-generation) platform, so this video still applies for that year. 📍 Video Chapters: 00:00 – Intro 00:08 – Passenger Side Torn Down & Shoes Replaced 03:20 – Driver Side – Description of How the Self Adjuster Works 05:55 – Driver Side – Drum Removal 09:34 – Driver Side – Springs and Shoe Removal 20:29 – Driver Side – Springs and Shoe Install 33:58 – Adjusting the Emergency Brake 40:05 – Conclusion 🔎 Important Notes: • I didn’t show it on camera, but I did test the emergency brake afterward and it worked fine. • I also didn’t include anti-seize on the drum hub or torque the lug nuts on camera—but make sure you do those steps! • Torque your lug nuts to 83 ft-lbs (113 Nm). Re-torque after 50 mi. • Rear drums have a lot of small, moving parts—so I always tackle one side at a time. That way, if something doesn’t look right during reassembly, I can reference the other side as a guide. 💬 Pro Tip: Always replace both sides when doing drum brakes. If you’re new to this, take a photo before removing the springs—it’ll save you a headache later! 🎥 Filmed with: GoPro 11 Black - https://amzn.to/45AcxAT 🎞️ Edited using: Filmora 14 + TourBox Elite Plus - https://amzn.to/4l5l6JJ 🖼️ Thumbnail using: GIMP + TourBox Elite Plus 👍 Like this video? Like & Subscribe for more DIY auto accessories & tool reviews, vehicle mods, maintenance, repairs and upgrades. 📅 New videos every Saturday @ 11AM CST 🔔 Subscribe & hit the bell so you don’t miss future uploads! 🙌 Want to Support the Channel? ☕ Patreon:   / mattmechanic   Disclaimer: I am a licensed Airframe & Powerplant (A&P) mechanic ✈️, but I am not a licensed automotive technician🚗. The content in this video is for educational and entertainment purposes only. Always consult a certified mechanic or your vehicle’s service manual before attempting any repairs or modifications. You are responsible for your own tools, safety, and decisions. Use this content at your own risk.