Top Chef Pitches Plan to Save Farm-to-Table Dining скачать в хорошем качестве

Top Chef Pitches Plan to Save Farm-to-Table Dining

The farm-to-table concept is one of the most foundational in contemporary American restaurants, and one of its most prominent champions fears it could become extinct. Dan Barber, chef and co-owner of critically acclaimed Blue Hill at Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture, is trying to enlist cooks from some of the world’s top kitchens to join what he calls the Kitchen Farming Project. It’s primarily meant to highlight the plight of a special class of small farms that have lost their restaurant customers. Blue Hill at Stone Barns, which is set on a 400-plus-acre former Rockefeller estate in Tarrytown, N.Y., has been the epitome of farm-to-table cuisine for two decades. While it’s always used the produce from its own farmland, Blue Hill has also relied on smaller enterprises in the region for a catalog of flavorful, playful if sometimes eccentric, agricultural products (the habanero pepper that’s all sweetness and no heat, for example). “You can’t allow the relationship between chefs and farms to disappear, for however long this moment is going to be,” Barber says. He sent messages to chefs around the world—“the big names, the 50 best”—asking them if they had a cook they’d allow to participate. Barner made it clear he didn’t want the chefs, but rather the younger disciples in their kitchens, to start the gardens. “This is not about us. This crisis effects the next generation.” The response? “They said, yeah, I want to get my chefs off the couch, too.” Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park in New York was a fast yes, as was Christian Pugliese, who has several restaurants including Relae, in Copenhagen, as well as Ana Ros in Slovenia. Barber now has 104 cooks around the world who’ve started digging and planting, and the number grows every day. The chefs who become part of his movement will set up 12-by-15-foot gardens to supply themselves and, possibly, their restaurants. These won’t directly benefit small farms but will, according to Barber, demonstrate the importance of diversified and rotating crops on one piece of land. These farmers preserve artisanal and legacy vegetables and grains as well as breed exciting new variants, all on relatively small parcels of property. Barber says farms that focus on just one crop, like corn, or even heirloom tomatoes, are depleting the land and are putting less popular vegetables and fruits crops at risk of eventually going out of circulation. He says it’s crucial to come to the aid of small, diverse operations at a moment when big farms are getting major support from the government. “It’s symbolic to start a conversation about what’s being lost,” he says. “Cooks don’t want to return to a world that’s serviced by megafarms in California, Arizona, and Texas. That’s what this comes down to. Chefs have been part of this exciting social movement called farm-to-table, and now this is a real inflection point,” he adds. Full story: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articl... Subscribe to our YouTube channel: https://bit.ly/2TwO8Gm QUICKTAKE ON SOCIAL: Follow QuickTake on Twitter: twitter.com/quicktake Like QuickTake on Facebook: facebook.com/quicktake Follow QuickTake on Instagram: instagram.com/quicktake Subscribe to our newsletter: https://bit.ly/2FJ0oQZ Email us at [email protected] QuickTake by Bloomberg is a global news network delivering up-to-the-minute analysis on the biggest news, trends and ideas for a new generation of leaders.