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We are Ricky and Nina and for the past two years, we've been on an epic journey driving overland around the world. In 2022, we shipped our 4x4 Beatrix from Australia to Malaysia and set off overlanding through Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, China, Nepal, India, Pakistan and now Afghanistan. So far, we've covered over 45,000 km. And now, we're about to take on one of the most complex and fascinating legs of our journey—crossing from Pakistan into Afghanistan. But first, we had a problem. Our car, Beatrix had overstayed her permit in Pakistan, and to legally leave the country, we needed one crucial signature. We had been told it wasn’t going to be an issue, but after three weeks of waiting, it was clear that this was anything but simple. Leaving Besham, we braced for another slow day of being passed from one police checkpoint to another. After weeks of navigating the narrow mountain roads of northern Pakistan, we finally found ourselves on the highway, heading straight for Peshawar one of Pakistan’s most historic and vibrant cities. Getting our Afghan visas turned out to be an adventure in itself. The Afghan consulate was inside a Pakistani military base, and we had to be escorted across town by the police to complete our “online” visa applications. After about an hour and a half of Ricky needing to handle all the paperwork while Nina sat quietly in the burkha they provided, we had our visas. But we weren’t done yet. Now, we needed that one elusive signature to get our car out of Pakistan. The next morning, we set off towards the legendary Khyber Pass, a route steeped in history. This ancient corridor, once a key part of the Silk Road, has been a battleground for centuries—from Alexander the Great to the British Raj, and more recently, the Afghan wars. Along the way, we passed ancient Buddhist stupas, crumbling British forts, and countless military checkpoints. We wanted to stop and explore, but the police made it clear that this was the tribal areas, and stopping was not an option. Finally, we arrived at the Torkham border, thinking we were about to enter Afghanistan. But, of course, it wasn’t that simple. The customs officials weren’t convinced our signed document from Islamabad was valid, and after six hours of waiting, endless phone calls, and a lot of frustration, we were finally cleared to proceed. One last round of questioning at "Zero Point," and we were through. We had officially entered our eighth country Afghanistan! Driving through Nangarhar Province, we were immediately struck by the diverse landscapes—lush green valleys, towering mountains, bustling markets, and stunning blue mosques. As we made our way toward Kabul, we saw everything from abandoned military outposts to fast-flowing rivers and lively roadside stalls. Ricky even climbed onto an old Soviet tank, a relic of Afghanistan’s long history of conflict. Despite the beauty of Afghanistan, we had to be extremely cautious about filming. Just months ago, some friends of ours on a similar journey were removed from their hotel room by the Taliban and accused of being journalists. We weren’t eager to share that experience, so we kept things as discreet as possible. Once in Kabul, we stayed at Masood’s guesthouse, Afghania, and had a chance to explore the city. We bought a beautiful Afghan carpet and picked up snow chains, apparently a necessity for our upcoming drive north. Kabul also turned out to be the place where we met the most overlanders we’ve seen in one place so far! We swapped stories with a Swiss couple who had been traveling in their Hilux for 30 years and met Maddi and Oli, who had ridden their Motorcycle all the way from Australia. Hearing that they were all heading towards Iran, avoiding Central Asia due to the upcoming winter, made us seriously question our own route. Were we crazy for planning to head north into Tajikistan just before winter? After a mini overlanding existential crisis, we decided to stick to our plan. With our direction set, we packed up, said our goodbyes, and hit the road once again. Afghanistan, you were so much more than we could have ever expected. Thank you to Masood and all the incredible people we met along the way. Check out Tilly2Wheels on Youtube if you want to see Maddi and Oli riding there motorcycle around the world @tilly2wheels If you are thinking about visiting Afghanistan and would like fantastic guide or somewhere to stay in Kabul we couldn't recommend Masood enough / travelafghania Maps Pakastan By Gerald J. Coleman from Central Intelligence Agency (CIA). Map from CIA World Factbook 2015., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index... Afganastan By Gerald J. Coleman from Central Intelligence Agency (CIA). Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index... Map from CIA World Factbook 2009., #afgahnistan #pakistan #overlanding #roadtrip