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入夜后的芦骨斯里巴力新村(Lukut Sri Parit),四周格外寂静,然而石文光与石家兴父子俩却已经在老家后头忙碌了起来。铁架上挂着一只只、一块块生猪肉,经处理和腌制后准备下窑烧烤。石家兴与兄弟仨人为兴记烧肉档的第三代承接人,自小在烧肉家族长大,耳濡目染下掌握了从处理生肉到烧肉出窑的各个环节。其中使用传统窑烧的技巧最具挑战。 石家的传统窑烧技术从祖父开始传承至今已有五十余年历史,即便是第三代的现在,在窑烧技术方面也延续了祖传方式,是少数仍然使用橡胶木以慢火烧烤猪肉。这传统窑烤烧猪的过程最考验技艺,尤其火候的掌控,如何让猪肉烧的均匀且不焦,同时保存肉的多汁和皮的香脆。石家父子俩多年的经验展现在其扎实的技巧上,只用手掌、观察、电筒、铁片就能判断及控制火势,和猪肉烧烤的程度。 身为承接家族事业的第三代,学成归来的石家兴与兄弟们即不忍心让祖传的手艺失传,也不想辜负家人的养育之恩,决定继承其衣钵,也希望扩展祖业。除了依旧在芦骨巴刹开档卖烧肉,同时也在商业区开设一家店面售卖烧肉和其他自家肉类如叉烧、烧鸭等,在品质上绝不妥协,也不假手于人。石家兴更冀望能将传统窑烧技术系统化,把祖传事业迈向企业。 After dark, the surroundings of Lukut Sri Parit village is veiled by serenity, however the See (transliteration) father and son are busying themselves at the rear of their old family house. Hanging on stainless steel racks are processed and marinated whole pigs as well as slices of cut raw pork, ready for firing in the kiln. Kenny and his three siblings are the third generation heirs to Heng Kee roast pork stall, growing up in a family of roastery, they are familiar with every single procedure from handling raw meat to taking the roasted pork straight out the kiln. Among all, the greatest challenge lies in the technique of using a traditional kiln. The See (transliteration) family’s traditional kiln roasting technique started from Kenny’s grandfather, lasting for well over half a century till the third generation at present. They are also among the handful who persist in the ancestral practice of using rubber tree trunks as firewood to roast the pork over low heat. The process of roasting pork over a traditional kiln is a test to the skills, especially exercising control over the temperature, how to ensure the pork is roasted evenly and not burnt, at the same time preserving the juiciness of the meat as well as the crispiness of the skin. Both father and son showcase their years of experience through the practice of solid skills, using bare hands, observation, torchlight, and metal shreds to determine and control the heat, and to which extent is the pork roasted. As the third generation inheritance of the family business, Kenny and his brothers who all graduated from university are reluctant to see the extinction of their ancestral trade. As a token of appreciation towards their family for the hard work in raising them, they decided to take up the family business, as well as expanding it. Apart from continually operating a roast pork stall inside Lukut wet market, they also set up a retail store in the commercial area selling roast pork and mixed roast items such as barbecued pork and roast duck, steadily refusing to compromise on quality, all items homemade. Kenny hopes to organise the traditional kiln roasting technique into a more systematic way, transforming the family business into a corporate. #有你UNI #UNIGallery #马来西亚有你 #有你 #UNI #uniness #uninessmalaysia https://uni.gallery https://uniness.gallery 文 Text/ 林汇川 Daniel Lim & 潘慧雯 Pua Hui Wen © 2019 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD