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V12 W140 Back In Business After 21 Years Of Standstill - Was The Rebuild A Success? Part 7 скачать в хорошем качестве

V12 W140 Back In Business After 21 Years Of Standstill - Was The Rebuild A Success? Part 7 1 день назад

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V12 W140 Back In Business After 21 Years Of Standstill - Was The Rebuild A Success? Part 7
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V12 W140 Back In Business After 21 Years Of Standstill - Was The Rebuild A Success? Part 7

This 1992 Mercedes-Benz 600SEL had spent 21 years tucked away in a garage. I ended up taking on the task of rebuilding the engine and transmission myself despite having never worked on a W140 before. In this episode I'm taking it on its first drive after several months and putting all that work to the test! You can now support me on patreon! -   / jmrestorationworks   MKB-TEC - https://mkb-tec.com My email: jmrestorationsyt@gmail.com The intake boots - https://www.pasaric.hr/1201411290r-12... Heater repair kit - https://klifex.com/remkomplekt-klapan... More info regarding replacing the air mass sensor wiring: The wiring runs through the front body harness form both air mass meters and into the computerbox shown in the video. Total of 8 wires go into the box and pin into the green and blue connectors, 2 grounds are grounded near the shock tower and ignition module. To fully remove the old biodegradeable wires from the front body harness would be a monumental task and is unnecessary. The most efficient way is to disconnect the old wires from both sides and just leave them sitting in the harness, cut them at the air mass meter connector and depin them from the connectors below the computerbox. The copper just sitting there not connected to anything is not going to be a problem. If you have MKB-TEC make you a new harness you need to send them the connectors only like I showed in EP6. They will also supply you with a set of instructions on which wires to pin where. Now to depin the old wires you need to disassemble the connector to some extent. Each connector is made up of the coloured part and piece of black plastic that goes down from below to lock in the pins. There's 4 tabs on the side of the connectors that have to be compressed to pull down the black piece. Its very fiddly work to do it without breaking anything, heating up the plastic can help a lot. Now to depin the wires I used cable splice release tool BGS CE56. Push it in to compress the tabs on the pin and pull from below. Heat can make it easier once again. With all of the old wires depinned you need to route the new wires into the plastic box, which is again very fiddly work. You need to pry and pull the box out of its place using a reasonable amount of force, theres a rubber boot leading into the interor that has to be pushed off the box aswell. Theres an empty grommet on the passenger side rear of the box that can be used to route the wires in, however access seemed unrealistic so I drilled an 18mm hole into the front slanted part of the box and used a wiring grommet with a 7mm center hole and routed the wires through that. Pushing in the new pins you need to pay attention to their positioning and orientation, heat can also help if they're stubborn, just make sure not to break them. Once they're in make sure they stay in place and can't be pushed down by the male pin on the computer side. When putting the box back in place the rubber boot leading to the interior can be a pain to get back on, some lubricant like WD40 helps a lot. Should be pretty much it.

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