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The Soup Bowl Barbados II

We will be traveling to different popular surf breaks over the next few years and hopefully longer to test the surf-zone algorithms. The Soup Bowl is much like a mini-Pipeline with North Atlantic and trade wind swell traveling out of the deep sea and landing on a shallow coral reef. This trip has been an epic test of SpaghettiWaves. I've monitored conditions everyday and Surf-Metrics.com estimated surf is certainly close to what one would feel in the lineup. Everyday there have been head-high or bigger sets every 7 min. Surfline for example, was consistently in the 3-4', 4-5' range. Surf Metrics tends to be higher than Surfline as we target the size of the better sets in a session. It seems to me Surfline attempts to forecast the average wave heights in a session, so a different assumption perhaps. I've always forecasted based on potential better sets as we use the swell that has the greatest wave energy flux that considers wave height squared and wave travel speed. This translates to that feeling of energy in the lineup and how that translates to surf speed when you drop in and do that first bottom turn. Wind favorability was off at times, but did pick up on calmer times during the day. This is more a very local effect of the bluff to the east that provides some shelter from the Easterly trade winds. It sparked an idea of having a wind angle and swell angle for each break where the wind angle can be tweaked for specific breaks without diminishing the swell size. Another critique is perhaps the wave period-based magnification of surf-zone wave height could be increased slightly for periods in the 13-15 sec. It was a foot overhead and our estimate was 5 ft with a north swell @ 14 sec. Overall this has been a super vacation and work trip to test Surf-Metrics.com.