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READ DESCRIPTION See a summary of my results here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/... Here are the batteries I used -- My mod battery with cells provided by RetroGameRepairShop: https://retrogamerepairshop.com/colle... Helder's battery purchased from his store: https://www.heldergametech.com/shop/b... RetroGameRepairShop "High Capacity Battery Pack" provided by RGRS: https://retrogamerepairshop.com/colle... Retrosix replacement SP battery pack purchased from HandHeldLegend: please see this video before even considering buying one: • Garbage Game Boy Advance SP Batteries Capacity testing method -- Capacity was measured with a LiitoKala Lii-500 battery charger. The charger will charge the cell up to a max capacity of 4.2v then discharge at 250mA down to 2.85v and present the measured capacity. This method is misleading for these batteries as the SP low voltage cutoff is only 3.4v so this will inflate the measured capacity. In most cases, the SP will actually only be able to utilize 90% or so of the measured capacity. Future capacity tests will be completed with a T150 charger and the low voltage cut off set to the same as the console. Runtime testing method -- Run time was tested with two different consoles, one modded with a funnyplaying IPS kit (more power efficient) and one with a 'one chip' IPS kit (less power efficient). FP kit was tested at default brightness and OC kit was tested at slightly higher brightness (kit has memory so once brightness was set, it was not adjusted further since it technically has no default brightness). Lower brightness on both consoles will result in significantly better battery life. Games tested were JP copies of Pokemon Ruby and Pokemon Sapphire. Consoles were timed with a time lapse camera and a stop watch to see how long it would take for the console to trigger the low voltage cut off and power off. I recorded both the time it took for the low power warning to come on and for the console to shut off. Additionally, late in the testing, I discovered an intermittent fault with one or both of my Game Boys (there was an issue with the dock charger that I was using too, not just the console that I mentioned in the video) where they would not fully charge my batteries. I thought I was testing a full battery when I was only testing a partially charged battery. I have re-done all of the tests for the numbers that looked off or where the math just didn't quite add up but I did not have the time or will to retest every single battery. Future tests (and all of my retests) are completed by charging the battery externally instead of relying upon the worn out connectors in my SPs. So, do these things invalidate my findings? I don't think so. But it is one hell of a grain of salt to take with my results. My test methods are absolutely flawed and can be improved but I think the base is good enough to still provide usable data, and most importantly, aside from the intermittent charge issue which I tried to fix with selective re-testing, my issues were consistent. Do also keep in mind my low sample size. One or two batteries does not necessarily represent ALL batteries. I think it's still a good sneak peak of what to expect though. The links provided are NOT affiliate links. I make no money from any of the links I provide. I have recently enabled monetization, however, to help offset my costs for this channel. I highly recommend using adblock if you think the ads are too intrusive. If you'd like to support me directly, I've created a ko-fi: https://ko-fi.com/makho Please do not feel obligated to contribute, what funds I make there will almost entirely be put towards junk food or cat treats or other non-youtube related bullshit I don't need.