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Welcome back to the channel on today’s video we have a few jobs to sort out. The first job I’ve been called out is a constantly overflowing toilet so as you can see the toilet is constantly running and that is because the ball valve isn’t even attached so the customer has got pretty lucky here as it could’ve been spraying and overflowing causing a flood. Because the toilet side go all the way back to the wall, we’re gonna have to isolate the water. Pour the toilet out and try to gain access as I don’t wanna pull it out too far and disturb too many joints. When working on a back to wall toilet after switching off the water, give the toilet flush if you can and then continue to use a wet vacuum and suck out all the water from inside the system and the toilet pan as when you pull the toilet out that should eliminate any water coming at ya. With the toilet poured forward unable to use my hand spanner to undo the flexible hose and then with a para grips it’s a bit tight as ceramic is really close. I’ve undone the float valve to be able to pull them out and pop a new one in. With a new valve in place simply do the reverse tighten everything all back up again and turn the water back onto the toilet out of place this is so you can see if anything is leaking as most toilets like this are fitted with flexible houses on the waist and the inlet valve. Which you’re happy simply just push everything back into place clean up the silicon and silicon down the toilet or fix it down with screws. Job number two is a new kitchen sink tap and the previous plumber has just screwed down the old flexible hoses onto the isolation valves which we all know is wrong as it has a bevelled edge instead of a nice flat surface so I’m gonna do is I’m gonna isolate the water remove these isolation valves and put some new ones which have a flat face that should make sure that this stays a leak free connection for a longer period of time. I’m using my. Nerrad tappex kit to help me remove the old tap and install a new one and I’m able to slide the new one into place with the hardware already attached making it easier for me underneath without fumbling any hardware and losing it. Third job is I’ve been called out to a leak coming from underneath the kitchen cupboard and upon inspection it’s coming from the check valve through the middle because the appliances aren’t plumbed into the here I’m just gonna remove it or a cut it off using a soldered cap end. To do this work you just have to turn off the incoming water main open up some taps below and start dismantling the fittings that you need to take apart if you’re sold and always make sure that you clean and prep the pipework properly as this will make sure that you have a nice water free soldered joint. I’m using sold fittings from a company called Yorkshire which has sold a pre-filled on the inside. This allows me to always make sure that I have sold all the way round the pipe and fitting, even if it’s in hard to see areas. Final job is I’ve been called out to another leak and the water is coming from a bathroom above and lower and behold it’s leaking from an isolation valve with a flexible hose attached straight to it. I know I keep badgering on about it but there’s many ways of doing this correctly and I know a lot of people don’t get leaks when they do it but eventually the customer calls me up to come and fix them. So just like the other job we’re gonna replacing those isolation valves with proper flat face ones, and that should fix the issue. I know this job is tap heavy but due to be in a maintenance job and plumber I go to these problems all the time and I’m simply just filming my day today so being in domestic houses hopefully this relates to something that you might have and give you a better idea of either how to fix the issue or know exactly what The plumber is gonna do when you call him out so if you like today’s Plumbing video please give it alike drop a comment down below subscribe if you’re new and I’ll see you on the next one