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Triumph Bonneville T140 Rear Wheel Build Guide | Rebuilding Rear Spoked Wheel Of Barn Find T140 | 20 ΡΠΊΠ°Ρ‡Π°Ρ‚ΡŒ Π² Ρ…ΠΎΡ€ΠΎΡˆΠ΅ΠΌ качСствС

Triumph Bonneville T140 Rear Wheel Build Guide | Rebuilding Rear Spoked Wheel Of Barn Find T140 | 20 3 months ago

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Triumph Bonneville T140 Rear Wheel Build Guide | Rebuilding Rear Spoked Wheel Of Barn Find T140 | 20
  • ΠŸΠΎΠ΄Π΅Π»ΠΈΡ‚ΡŒΡΡ Π’Πš
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Π‘ΠΊΠ°Ρ‡Π°Ρ‚ΡŒ Π²ΠΈΠ΄Π΅ΠΎ с ΡŽΡ‚ΡƒΠ± ΠΏΠΎ ссылкС ΠΈΠ»ΠΈ ΡΠΌΠΎΡ‚Ρ€Π΅Ρ‚ΡŒ Π±Π΅Π· Π±Π»ΠΎΠΊΠΈΡ€ΠΎΠ²ΠΎΠΊ Π½Π° сайтС: Triumph Bonneville T140 Rear Wheel Build Guide | Rebuilding Rear Spoked Wheel Of Barn Find T140 | 20 Π² качСствС 4k

Π£ нас Π²Ρ‹ ΠΌΠΎΠΆΠ΅Ρ‚Π΅ ΠΏΠΎΡΠΌΠΎΡ‚Ρ€Π΅Ρ‚ΡŒ бСсплатно Triumph Bonneville T140 Rear Wheel Build Guide | Rebuilding Rear Spoked Wheel Of Barn Find T140 | 20 ΠΈΠ»ΠΈ ΡΠΊΠ°Ρ‡Π°Ρ‚ΡŒ Π² максимальном доступном качСствС, Π²ΠΈΠ΄Π΅ΠΎ ΠΊΠΎΡ‚ΠΎΡ€ΠΎΠ΅ Π±Ρ‹Π»ΠΎ Π·Π°Π³Ρ€ΡƒΠΆΠ΅Π½ΠΎ Π½Π° ΡŽΡ‚ΡƒΠ±. Для Π·Π°Π³Ρ€ΡƒΠ·ΠΊΠΈ Π²Ρ‹Π±Π΅Ρ€ΠΈΡ‚Π΅ Π²Π°Ρ€ΠΈΠ°Π½Ρ‚ ΠΈΠ· Ρ„ΠΎΡ€ΠΌΡ‹ Π½ΠΈΠΆΠ΅:

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Triumph Bonneville T140 Rear Wheel Build Guide | Rebuilding Rear Spoked Wheel Of Barn Find T140 | 20

Triumph Bonneville T140 Rear Wheel Build Guide | Rebuilding Rear Spoked Wheel Of Barn Find T140 | 20 In this episode I build the rear wheel of my 1975 Triumph Bonneville T140V with new spokes and a new rim. Here's what I used in this video: Spoke Spanner: https://ebay.us/Ru9CmR Alumslip anti-seize: https://ebay.us/uPXxnS Imperial Combination Spanner Set: https://ebay.us/gYz85M Imperial 1/2inch Socket set: https://ebay.us/jylH05 Imperial Allen Hex Bit Sockets: https://ebay.us/iFV0OQ Having stripped the rear wheel a while ago I now need to rebuild the rear wheel of my 1975 T140V Triumph Bonneville. The rear wheel wasn't in as good a condition as the front one but it could probably have been reused. However I wanted to powder coat the hubs and the rim in black and I also wanted some nice shiny stainless spokes to really set the wheels off. The Triumph T140V rear wheel has a hub is in three parts and like the front can be put together in two different ways, 90 degrees apart. Only one of which will not work with the standard rim and spokes. If it is put together wrong the hole at the rear is further clockwise, and the spokes will not all line up properly. The seals and spacer vary year to year during the 70s with this type of hub, so you need to makes sure you know if it will need any seals putting in first. I am using stainless spokes so I need to make sure that I use a good anti-seize. Stainless fasteners to prevent galling or cold welding. This can happen very easily when you are tightening them up. Even if there is a mixture of stainless with steel or in the case of spokes stainless with nickel plated brass. You should not to use copper base anti-seize, because apparently the copper can cause Galvanic corrosion, some electricity thing. I use aluminium based anti-seize for stainless fasteners, so I coated the threaded ends of the spokes with Alumslip. For the rear wheel the spokes come in 4 different types. Inners, with a wider than 90 degree bend, and outers with a 90 degree bend each in two different lengths. The different bends are so that when the spokes are inserted in the hub they sit in the right direction to meet the holes in the rim. The rim sits towards the disk side of the hub by around 10mm, leading to the different length spokes. Like the front wheel the first spokes that are inserted are the inners which are inserted from the outside of the hub. This is because it wouldn't be possible to put them in if the outers were put in first. All 20, ten on each side, inners are put in and the nipples loosely put through the hub making sure that the longer ones are on the sprocket side of the hub. After the inners the outers are put in, these go in the opposite direction, and you will find that each one goes in 10 holes in the rim away for the nearest inner on that side. Once you have all of the outers in, I screw all of the nipples in so that they just cover the threads on the spoke, in an effort to have them all equal, or as near to equal as possible. I then start working my way around the rim turning the nipples by an equal amount, perhaps half or one turn at a time, using the hole for the valve as a datum to keep count. One you have done this a few times the wheel starts to become quite firm. Up to now I would tend to use a screwdriver, but once they firm up I start to use a spoke spanner. If you have the right type of torque spanner to set spokes, then the setting seems to be between 4nm and 9nm, which really isn't very firm. Personally I keep going until when you tap each spoke with a screwdriver it makes a sharp ringing sound. I find that some of the spokes will not have as bright a sound, so I will tighten them by a quarter to half a turn more until they sound right. For more helpful how-to guides and restoration project logs, visit our blog: https://www.spannerrash.com/ As an Amazon Associate, Ebay Partner and Awin Affiliate, we earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. Some of our links are affiliate links, and if you decide to purchase things through them, we earn a small commission. It costs you nothing but helps us to keep the content coming. Thanks for your support!

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