Bonneville Front Fork Rebuild Guide | Barn Find 1970s Triumph T140 Forks | 17 скачать в хорошем качестве

Bonneville Front Fork Rebuild Guide | Barn Find 1970s Triumph T140 Forks | 17

Bonneville Front Fork Rebuild Guide | Barn Find 1970s Triumph T140 Forks | 17 In this episode I assess the wear and damage of my 1975 Triumph Bonneville T140V front forks. I then build up both of the forks and put oil back in them. Here’s what I use in this video: Standard Fork Seals T140: https://ebay.us/VmBKan T140V Fork Stanchions: https://ebay.us/bNbuhg T140 Stanchion Plug 90-4076: https://ebay.us/UuNjfh Fork Dowty washers: https://ebay.us/SSI8tB Dexron II Fork Oil: https://ebay.us/z8hDjp Imperial Combination Spanner Set: https://ebay.us/gYz85M Imperial 1/2inch Socket set: https://ebay.us/jylH05 Imperial Allen Hex Bit Sockets: https://ebay.us/iFV0OQ This 1975 Triumph Bonneville T140V was bought through an eBay auction, having been imported back from the USA. I registered it within 4 weeks of it arriving back in the UK. I really hope to be riding it in the Spring, but time is marching on. I have already done some work on the frame and started having some fun with stripping the engine. I stripped the front forks in a previous video. I noticed a number of issues that I would need to address. I had been hoping that the forks from this Triumph Bonneville T140V would just need new seals, but it never seems to work out like that. The first concern I had was the stanchions. I could see that they had a little pitting, one of them had quite a bad scrape mark where the leg would be inside the slider. Although not perfect if this bad scrape hadn’t been there I think that the stanchions would be reusable. I decided to buy new stanchions rather than having the originals refinished, mainly because this is a lot cheaper. There are also quite a variety of different reproduction stanchions available. I decided to buy the cheapest ones from a reputable UK supplier. I have had this type before and they were fine. I intended to replace all of the seals in the fork leg, so I included them on my order for the stanchions. Besides the main fork seal, I ordered new damper o rings, Dowty washers, and some drain plug screws with new washers. I replaced the o rings on the damper units with standard replacements. There are some upgraded ones using phenolic seals, but as there didn’t seem to be any available I avoided that expense 🙂 I used an O ring pick which has a blunt end to remove O ring, I have only just come across these and they do make the job so much easier. I bought both types of seal for these forks, the original and the so-called leak proof ones. I decided to use the original type as I had them and the stanchions are new. That and I didn’t have new washers for the leak proof ones. I suspect I will have these forks apart again at some time, so I will get some washers for the future! When I was removing the end nut from the stanchions the heat had melted the bushes inside. I had hoped that I might be able to replace these, but I found they weren’t available separately so I also ordered new ones. When I was looking at the slider that the scraped stanchion was in I found that although there were some scrapes inside it wasn’t really that bad. I decided to use a small cylinder hone to just tidy it up. I literally just passed the hone through a couple of times, and although there were still marks, overall the insides were quite smooth. Trying a stanchion in the slider seemed to indicate that there was excessive wear. As this area will run in oil all of the time, and it would fill any areas that were scraped then I think this will work out fine. I put together a set of 1/4inch extensions with a large flat screwdriver bit to hold the damper rod while I tightened the Allen key that holds it in. This works fine and saves buying a special tool. Having checked the length of the springs, although they are different lengths, I found that they were within the original spec. The slight difference in length will not really make any difference in use, a lot of modern forks have parts with much more variation between the two legs. I did consider buying different springs but until I know how the forks feel with these springs, and the fact that they are very easy to change, made me decide to put that off until I had tried them. I decided to try to stick to what Triumph originally said for fork oil, which is ATF. Which is Dexron 2, I already had some on the shelf I decided to use that. It is labelled as power steering fluid, but the standard is the same as ATF. Overall putting the fork legs back together was quite easy. For more helpful how-to guides and restoration project logs, visit our blog: https://www.spannerrash.com/ As an Amazon Associate, Ebay Partner and Awin Affiliate, we earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. Some of our links are affiliate links, and if you decide to purchase things through them, we earn a small commission. It costs you nothing but helps us to keep the content coming. Thanks for your support!