etrailer | Installation of the TruRyde Equalizer for 2" Wide Slipper Springs скачать в хорошем качестве

etrailer | Installation of the TruRyde Equalizer for 2" Wide Slipper Springs

Click for more info and reviews of this TruRyde Trailer Suspension Parts: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Susp... Check out some similar Trailer Suspension Parts options: https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trai... https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe!    / etrailertv   Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-tr... Ian with etrailer here and today we're gonna be looking at the TruRyde Slip Spring Equalizer for two inch Springs. This equalizer here is going to be for our two inch wide slipper leaf springs, so make sure you're getting the right type when you need that equalizer. The side bolt diameters for the front and rear are both going to be nine 16ths, intended for nine 16ths bolts there, and then seven 16ths as far as this center bolt for your equalizer bolt. Another thing to keep in mind about this 12 inch long equalizer here is that it is going to allow for either your tandems or triple axle. So that may be something you need to factor in depending on how many axles you're running on your trailer. We've just got the two here. But that'll conclude the features. Let's go ahead and hop into that install. So these leaf springs are pretty rusted. You can see the ones in the rear here have shifted even. So we're gonna need to get these out. With these as rusted out as they are, I'm gonna go ahead and just cut 'em off. I've got a cutting wheel here. Of course, always use safety protection when you're using all that, eyes and ears every time. (drill whirls) Now we're gonna go ahead and take these end shackles loose. We've got a seven eights wrench box end on the back, and then a 13 16ths to take this front end off. There's gonna be this one, and then two in the middle, and one at the end, just the same as this on the hangers. (drill whirls) Now with all our bolts loose for our end shackles of the springs, they're good to come out. So we'll just slide those out carefully. Just watch out for your axle, make sure it's well braced because it will shift around. And we'll push both of those outta the way and work on getting this end right here taken off. There's nothing to hold as far as hardware on this outside edge. It'll be a one in five 16ths on the inside. I'm just gonna run the impact to get that off there for us. (drill whirls) Go ahead and drive this out of the center hole. Now we're gonna get our equalizer block in there, and that's just gonna slide into place. This wet bolt here is just going to sit through and into this square slot. And we're gonna go ahead and get the castle nut on the backside of this equalizer bolt. There's not a torque spec for this, but we're just gonna go snug and then put the cotter pin in. So we want to orient the hole so that it lines up with the slots on the castle nut. Just kind of snug that down. We don't wanna go too hard, because the intent is to keep this from binding. It should always be able to move freely and adjust as it goes down the road. Here we're just about snug and almost lined up. We just have to do that a little quarter turn, or eighth of a turn at the time to get that hold line up and then slide that cotter key through, and bend your tabs. Sticking out for the cotter pin up out of the way. We're gonna go ahead and get this spring hung up here. Easiest way I've found, just kind of worming it in, and then rotate into place once we've got at least one side through, lining up that center pin with the hole that is on top of the axle. And once we've got that into place, we'll just go ahead and get our hardware. And while these are going in, for this particular trailer, eyelets are gonna go on the front of this particular spring. Same situation in the rear. Eyelets are in the front, so make sure you've got that orientation right, otherwise you'll have to pull the whole thing apart and start over. Then our shackle bolts are gonna line up with the hole here. They're gonna feed through the face just like when we took 'em off. May have to get underneath it and apply pressure downwards or left or right to get that hole to line up. And we're gonna run through and tighten down all these spring eye bolts and nuts. What you want to do is just kind of get those snug at first, and then we're gonna use a hammer to just drive it down the rest of the way until that collars all the way in and up against the shackle hangers here. I got that one pretty snug already. (hammer hits metal) We'll tighten down. And you'll have to repeat this process as you go along, and just tightening down and then button it back up as far as the hammer, trying to get that end all the way to your hangar. As I'm going through tightening these down, I wanted to make sure to mention that these don't have a tor