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Older Vermont Castings catalytic wood stoves are like Ferraris - they perform great if everything is totally fine tuned - but they need attention to maintain that level of functionality. There is a ceramic refractory that houses the catalytic converter, and that porous delicate material deteriorates over time, as does the catalytic element. And many of the internal cast iron parts can warp over the years. And the secondary air probe also ages and can have issues. Gaskets break down and wear and need to be inspected and replaced as needed. My stove was professionally rebuilt about a dozen years ago, but the past couple of years it had issues. It would not maintain temperature once the catalytic damper was engaged. It would also puff smoke and created a ton of creosote - which it is designed not to do. The refractory box no longer supported the catalytic converter well, it sat at a skewed angle, and the output of the stove did not all pass through it, so it no longer re-burned the smoke. As a result lots of creosote built up. I could not find a service technician who was not backed up with repairs and rebuilds - so I decided to attempt re- to work on my stove myself. It was an interesting experience and I learned a lot. (I screamed and cursed a lot too). So - here's some tips while the process is still current for me. There are detailed manufacturer's instructions for replacing the refractory box. To do it, all the internal cast iron parts need to be disassembled and removed. It's a good bet some or all will be warped and need to be replaced. There are also some things that lack clarity in the manufacturer's instructions, and after additional research and trying to do each task - I learned a lot. This video shows some elements of the rebuild that I had to figure out myself when I hit issues or decisions while taking it apart or reassembling it. In the end it all worked out. I hope my overview and tips help you. It's a nice feeling to complete the rebuild!