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Click for more info and reviews of this B and W Gooseneck Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck-Hi... Check out some similar Gooseneck Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguideg.htm Search for other popular Chevrolet Silverado parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2004... https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe! / etrailertv Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-b... Today on our 2004 Chevy Silverado 3500, we're going to be installing the B & W Turnover Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch, part number BWGNRK1062. Here's what our hitch will look like once it's installed. Now let's go ahead and go through the operation of the handle and gooseneck ball. Here on the driver's side is the handle for locking the ball in place. To unlock the handle, we'll pull out, rotate it towards the cab and it holds the handle out, keeping the pin inside the gooseneck head away from the center section so that we can remove the gooseneck ball. Now we can take it out and turn it over. We can then put it in the stored position and then re-lock the handle. Simply rotate it towards the rear of the truck and let it go and the spring in the gooseneck center section will return the pin. One of the really nice features about the gooseneck install, is the custom installation and the fact that we don't have to drill into the frame. We utilize the manufacturer's attachment points and U bolts to secure the side bracket to the frame and then just the pre-drilled holes in the side bracket to attach it to the cross members. Now to install the gooseneck ball, doesn't matter which side we install towards the latch, as it's all drilled the same. We simply drop it in place, throw the latch and it locks it into position. Next we'll go ahead and show you how to install the hitch. We're first going to go ahead and prep the vehicle by lowering and removing the spare tire and the rear wheels. Now with our spare tire down, we have more working room underneath, we're going to go ahead and cut out the heat shield here on the passenger side above the exhaust. We need to cut it out right along the hat channel here just above the axle and just behind the hat channel here in front of the rear axle. Now to cut it off, you could use a pair of tin snips or we're going to use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. Now to finish off the cut, I'm just going to use a pair of tin snips. With the front half cut, I'll go ahead and repeat the same process for the second half. Now once we have it cut, we'll go ahead and wiggle it free and pull it out. Next I'm going to take a hammer and just turn up any of the sharp edges, so that we don't catch them on our hands. To make it easier to get the center section in position, you can lower the exhaust. To lower the exhaust, you'd remove the rubber isolator both here at the tailpipe and one next to the muffler, which will help make it easier and more working room to get the center section in place. This particular application has an after market exhaust, so we're going to go ahead and leave it in place. Next we're going to move into the pickup bed. We need to measure from the end of the pickup bed to the center as per the instructions. Now when measuring, we need to make sure we're at the actual edge of the pickup bed, not the bed liner or the tailgate, the pickup bed only. Then we'll go back 49 1/2 inches and mark our length. Next we're going to measure from side to side and find the center of the pickup bed, so we can mark the width. Now once you've found your length and your width and you're in the center of the pickup bed, I'm going to go ahead and use a quarter inch bit to drill out my pilot hole. Once I drill out the pilot hole, I can then bring in my hole saw to drill down through the pickup bed and in this application, also the bed liner. Now to make it easier to drill down through the bed liner and the pickup bed, we're going to use a piece of plywood that has pre-drilled holes as our guide. This will help to keep it centered and going down smoothly through the bed liner and pickup bed. Now once I get my drill lined up with our pilot hole, I'm going to go ahead and stand on the plywood to help keep it in place. Quick tech tip, depending on the depth of your hole saw, it may be necessary to remove the liner before going all the way through the pickup bed. For our application, we we're able to go all the way through and we now have our hole drilled out for the throat of the center section where our gooseneck ball will mount. Next we're going to go ahead and install the cross rails. Before we can get the cross rails above the frame and below the pickup bed, we need to relocate the wiring harness here. There's a couple of push pin fasteners that hold it in place. Using a flat bladed screwdriver or an interior t