etrailer | Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2004 Chevrolet Silverado скачать в хорошем качестве

etrailer | Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2004 Chevrolet Silverado

Click for more info and reviews of this B and W Gooseneck Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck-Hi... Check out some similar Gooseneck Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguideg.htm Search for other popular Chevrolet Silverado parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2004... https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe!    / etrailertv   Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-b... Today on our 2004 Chevrolet Silverado, we will be installing the B&W Turnoverball underbed gooseneck trailer hitch with custom installation kit, part number BWGNRK1067. All right, here's what our gooseneck looks like installed. As you can see, it sits down flush in the bed of our truck with our safety chain loops in the bottom channels of our bed so we don't lose any of our valuable space in the bed of our truck at all. Our safety chain loops are spring-loaded for ease of use. Our ball, which has a 7,500 pound vertical load limit and a 30,000 pound max gross trailer weight rating . You'll want to consult with the owner's manual of your Silverado and not exceed the limits of the vehicle itself or the hitch and cause damage to either one. Now, when we're not towing, our ball can be stored in our gooseneck upside-down. We have this easy-to-use handle right here to lower it on down in. This way, we don't have to worry about misplacing the ball, and it's readily available for us when we're ready to tow our trailer again. What I really like about the B&W Turnoverball system is not only is it a very high-quality kit and made of durable materials which will last a very long time, but the ability to store our ball upside-down like this is a feature that a lot of other gooseneck hitches don't have, giving you full access to the bed of your truck but still have your ball readily available for when you're ready to tow. Now, the Turnoverball system operates by this spring-loaded handle mounted in the driver's side wheel well of our truck. When we're ready to pull our ball out to switch it around, be it in the stored position or the tow position, you can grab the handle, pull it out towards you, turn it clockwise, and it'll lock open. Once you have it flipped, just turn it back counterclockwise and release, and it'll lock your ball into place. All right, to begin our installation, for video purposes, we removed our spare tire to give us a little more room to work. Now, we will lower our exhaust. There's a series of exhaust hangers, one by the tailpipe section and two up by the muffler, one behind it and one in front of it. We'll spray some lubricant on them so they slide off a bit easier, and we'll use a pry bar to pry them off. All right, now that we have our exhaust lowered a little bit, it gives us access to remove this section of our exhaust heat shield. We'll need to remove it from our rear cross member here towards our front one up there. I made a mark to see where we need to cut it at. We'll use a cutoff wheel in order to do this. Okay, now we need to make a mark in the bed of our truck according to the instructions for your bed length. We'll want to make sure we measure from the end of the bed and not the end of the tailgate. Now we'll measure from wheel well to wheel well, and we'll make sure our mark is centered side to side in the bed of our truck. Now we'll drill a pilot hole in the center where we marked. Okay, now we use a hole saw to make our final hole. Okay, now we'll take some black spray paint and spray along the inner edge of where we made our hole. That way, we don't have to worry about any rust in the future. All right, now on our passenger's side of our truck in our wheel well, we need to make a notch in the bed side here in order for our rails to slide into place. We marked it out according to the instructions. We used the same cutting wheel that we used earlier in order to cut out our heat shield in the exhaust. That's probably your best bet on this since it's pretty thick metal. Now we'll use our spray paint again so we don't have to worry about any rust. All right, here's a quick tech tip for you. Before we put our rails in position, our one that's a solid piece of metal, we'll want to run our bolts through them a couple times just to help clean out the threads of any of the powder coating. We'll do the same for all the bolt holes. Now, before we install our front rail in the truck, the front rail is the one that's an angled piece, we'll want to install one of our bolts in the second hole over from the left. Take the bolt in, take the O-ring that's provided, and roll it over it, and this will hold it in place. Okay, now we'll slide our front rail in position. Again, this is the angled rail that has the bolt that we just installed. That bolt will go towards the driver's side of the vehicle. We'll slide it in through the