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Mee Soto with Begedil (Plus a Little About Me)

The heartbeat of Singaporean cooking, in my opinion, is rempah. Rempah is a fine paste of onions, garlic, lemongrass, turmeric, galangal, candlenuts and often a blend of finely ground spices. One of my biggest takeaways from Candlenut was understanding how to coax flavour out of rempah and to taste the difference between a ‘raw’ spice paste and one that is sufficiently fried. Mee soto is a dish that showcases the versatility of rempah. The paste is fried briefly before being simmered with chicken, whole spices and water. The result is a full-bodied broth that’s slightly thicker than chicken stock, owing to the ground candlenuts that function like a thickener, and clings to every strand of noodle. Mee Soto Serves 4 Rempah: 150g red onions, peeled and coarsely chopped 20g peeled garlic 10g peeled ginger, coarsely chopped White parts of 2 lemongrass stalks, thinly sliced 30g skinless galangal, coarsely chopped 30g skinless turmeric, coarsely chopped 30g candlenuts or cashew nuts Chicken broth: 4 tablespoons oil 5 cloves 2 dried bay leaves 2 star anise White parts of 2 lemongrass stalks, bruised 4 cardamoms or 1 black cardamom 1 cinnamon stick 1 chicken, cut into 2 pieces 2L water 1 tablespoon coriander powder 1 teaspoon cumin powder 1 teaspoon white pepper 2-3 tablespoons salt (start with the lesser amount) Big pinch of sugar Begedils: 600g potatoes, halve the especially big ones 2 dried bay leaves 2 spring onions, sliced thinly 3 coriander sprigs or Chinese celery, roughly chopped 80g fried shallots Salt and white pepper to taste 1-2 beaten eggs for coating Assembly: 100g beehoon 400g yellow noodles Shredded chicken meat Deep-fried shallots Chopped coriander Begedils Kecap manis dip: Kecap manis Thinly sliced chilli or chilli padi Blend the rempah ingredients together, placing the onions and garlic at the bottom of the blender, until a smooth paste forms. In a big pot, heat up the oil, cloves, bay leaves, star anise, lemongrass, cardamom and cinnamon stick. When the oil begins to sizzle, add the rempah and cook for 1-2 minutes over high heat. Add the chicken and water, adding more water to cover the chicken if necessary. Bring to a boil. Add the spices, salt and sugar – taste and adjust the seasoning. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 3 hours or until the chicken becomes incredibly tender, to the point of falling apart. Taste again and adjust seasoning if necessary. Strain to separate the chicken from the stock, and pick the chicken meat off the bones when it is cool enough to handle. The soup and chicken can be cooked several days in advance – I recommend picking the chicken meat off while still warm, and store separately from the broth. To prepare the begedil, place the potatoes in a large pot and fill with water to cover. Add the bay leaves, cover the pot and bring to a boil. When boiling, turn the heat down to a simmer and cook until tender. Depending on the size of your potatoes, this can take anywhere from 40 minutes to an hour. Test with a knife – when it goes through the potatoes with no resistance, it is ready. Drain the potatoes through a colander and allow to sit until the potatoes cool enough to handle (they still have to be warm – don’t completely cool them down). Peel off the skins of the potatoes with a butter or paring knife. Mash with your hands into a large bowl and add all the other ingredients, except the eggs. Mix well and adjust seasoning to your taste. Form little patties – they can be as little or as large as you like. Heat a pot or wok with oil. When bubbles stream from a wooden chopstick inserted into the oil, it is hot enough. Dip the potato patties with the beaten egg and lower into the oil gently. Remove and allow to drain on paper towels when they are a handsome golden brown. To serve, bring the soup back up to a boil. Add the beehoon and Hokkien noodles (if your Hokkien noodles have an especially strong alkaline flavor, I recommend blanching them in a separate pot). Once the beehoon has completely rehydrated, divide into serving bowls. Top with the shredded chicken, soup, shallots, coriander and begedils. Serve the mee soto with kecap manis dip on the side. - - - - - Podcast: The Singapore Noodles Podcast Newsletter: http://sgpnoodles.substack.com Instagram: @sgpnoodles Website: http://sgpnoodles.com Shop for Wet Market to Table: https://epigrambookshop.sg/products/w... Shop for SEASONINGS Magazine: https://seasoningsmag.com/