To Fthino Manaviko 8a+ / 5.13c Leonido. Limit Redpointing! скачать в хорошем качестве

To Fthino Manaviko 8a+ / 5.13c Leonido. Limit Redpointing!

For beta reference, i am 185cm tall with a +5 cm ape index. 8a+ (5.13c) is my hardest redpoint grade to date, and this route took me 4 sessions (9 tie ins) at Limeri crag to send the day after Emovoros. Strategy: I recommend stick clipping the 3rd bolt, as the climbing is way left of it. After clipping the 4th and 5th quickdraw, i downclimbed to the big ledge to rest well. (video begins here) My beta in the upper crux meant i had to skip a clip, making the final moves feel extra spicy! This was my last project on this trip to Greece, and my favorite route i touched in Leonidio. I felt that this route was honest for the grade, and that i executed beta that was optimal for my strengths (combined with beast mode) ;) The upper slab surprisingly stayed dry during light rain. Enjoy!