What Factors Influence Ocean Swell Characteristics? скачать в хорошем качестве

What Factors Influence Ocean Swell Characteristics?

Ever wondered what truly shapes the massive waves we see in the ocean? This video dives deep into the complex forces that create and define ocean swells, from their birth to their journey across vast distances. In this video, you'll discover: ► The primary role of wind speed, duration, and fetch in swell generation. ► How wave height, period, and direction are determined and measured. ► The impact of bathymetry and distant weather systems on swell characteristics. ► Why understanding swell is crucial for surfing, shipping, and coastal engineering. #OceanSwell, #Oceanography, #MarineScience, #Waves, #Weather