Making a Wheel Marking Gauge скачать в хорошем качестве

Making a Wheel Marking Gauge

Making a Wheel Marking Gauge, by Plan Build Use. As a woodworker, there's nothing more satisfying then seeing two pieces of wood come together in a tight fitting, accurate dovetail or mortise and tenon joint. Whether you're using hand tools, or power tools, it's import to plan the cuts and clearly mark the cut locations on the work piece. A marking gauge is fantastic tool for this task. In this video, I make my own wheel style marking gauge. Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/p/BtGxzfSBu... Making A Simple Reamer From Blued Pivot Steel, by Clickspring:    • Spare Parts #3 - Making A Simple Reamer Fr...   (Video Transcription): 00:07 Hi, welcome to my shop! As a woodworker, there's nothing more satisfying then seeing two pieces of wood come together in a tight fitting, accurate dovetail or mortise and tenon joint. Whether you're using hand tools, or power tools, it's import to plan the cuts and clearly mark the cut locations on the work piece. A marking gauge is fantastic tool for this task. 00:33 Unlike a pencil, with a marking gauge it's much easier to make repeatable, accurate marks on the work piece. In addition, the clear scribe line left by the marking gauge helps prevent tear out and provides a place to register the tip of the chisel. Resulting in fewer mistakes and a cleaner looking joint. Today, i make my own wheel style marking gauge. 00:58 I'm using free machining brass for the body of the marking gauge and 3/8 inch drill rod for the shaft. I'm using a Wood River commercial marking gauge blade. 01:11 I start by cutting off a piece of 2 inch diameter brass and face both ends. 01:27 Once the outside of the body of the marking gauge has been machined, it is going to become difficult to hold on to. So, before drilling the hole for the shaft, I need to drill and tap the hole for the locking screw. 01:56 Before heading back to the lathe, I mark the location where I need to drill the hole for the shaft. 02:06 The hole for the shaft needs to be drilled 3/8 of an inch off center, so I switch to the four jaw chuck. 02:20 Location of this hole is not super critical, so I dial it in by eye, using the tail stock and the mark that I made. 02:48 I'm aiming for a close sliding fit, so the hole is drilled slightly undersized and reamed to final size. 02:58 Now I don't have the right size reamer; so I made my own out of tool steel. 03:04 I learned how to make this reamer from Chris over at Clickspring; I'll leave a link in the description 03:28 The shop made reamer worked out better than I expected. The fit came out perfect and the surface finish is excellent. Thanks Chris! 03:48 I make a small counter bore for the blade of the marking gauge to recess into. 04:01 I'm getting to the phase of the build where it will become difficult to hold on to the part, so I switch back to the Three jaw chuck and prepare a super glue chuck. 04:26 I addition to the super glue, I decided to add a small shaft to prevent the part from moving. 04:59 In order machine the lower radius, I'm using this form tool, which has been ground to a 5/8 inch radius. 05:32 For the outer radius, I ground the form tool to a 5/16 inch radius. 05:51 The part is gradually heated with a propane torch to break the bound of the super glue. 06:01 And after a few minutes on the buffing wheel, this part is done. Next I move onto the shaft. I face both ends. After that I drill and tap one end to receive a 1/4 machine screw. 06:19 Finally, I counter bore one end to fit the geometry of a commercial marking gauge blade. 06:30 And lastly, I move on the thumb screw. I start with a shallow clean up pass, then get set up for knurling. 07:09 I use a die to cut the threads; then I part off the part. 07:34 I use some hand files to remove the small stem left after parting off. And with that the marking gauge is done, and here it is. 07:45 I'm really happy with how the marking gauge came out. It's easy to set up, and if feels really good in the hand. 07:56 One advantage of this type of marking gauge is that it can be used to trim up close to a shoulder, or even down in the bottom of a stopped mortise. Making it more versatile then most pin style marking gauges. 08:09 I know I'm going to get a lot of use out of this tool, and I can't wait to use it on my upcoming woodworking projects. 08:15 If you like this video and you want to see more content like it, please like and subscribe. 08:19 Thanks for stopping in. I'll see you on the next video.