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Victor Ramos (Mal Bien/Gusto Historico Madrecuixe, Tobala, Tobaxiche, Tequilero, Ensambles) + a Rant

Set up the morning that the Mexico tariffs went into effect and recorded literally right after the tariffs were delayed (but before the Canada ones were also delayed), this one's gonna have a weird energy. Come for the mezcal reviews, stay for a closing, half-drunken rant on continuity across administrations regarding China policy, on purchasing power parity GDP, on the good old fashioned global capitalist policy playbook, and on why you might consider starting your own spirits tasting group. But first, the mezcal. We've done tasting flights focused on one particular bottler or one particular agave, and to mix things up today we're focusing on one particular producer across agave types and bottlers. Victor Ramos (frequently helped out by his son Emanuel) is a 3rd generation mezcalero in Mengolí De Morelos, a few miles north of Miahuatlán de Porfirio Díaz, and sells his work through Mezcalosfera, Mal Bien, Gusto Historico, and a few other labels (Mal Bien has a short profile at https://www.mezcalmalbien.com/victor-... ). In terms of Miahuatlán producers, Ramos is somewhat larger distiller than what you'll tend to see with, e.g., NETA bottlings (   • NETA Destilados: Tepextate x2, Madrec...   ), but quite a bit smaller than, e.g., Vago's Jarquin (see    • Weekend Espadin Mezcal Double Review:...   ). And if you can't find these batches anymore, they'll give you some idea of what he's putting out there: Victor & Emanuel Ramos Madrecuixe Agave Spirit (Mengolí De Morelos, Miahuatlán, Oaxaca, bottled by Mal Bien; distilled in refrescador still, Lot 0122VFR; 47.9% ABV), 88/100 Victor Ramos Tobala Agave Spirit (Mengolí De Morelos, Miahuatlán, Oaxaca, bottled by Gusto Histórico; distilled in refrescador still, Lot VR 08 21 TB; 48.4% ABV), 86/100 Victor & Emanuel Ramos Tobaxiche Agave Spirit (Mengolí De Morelos, Miahuatlán, Oaxaca, bottled by Mal Bien; distilled in refrescador still, Lot 05020ER; 48.47% ABV), 88+/100 Victor Ramos Mexicano, Espadín, and Madrecuixe Agave Spirit (Mengolí De Morelos, Miahuatlán, Oaxaca, bottled by Gusto Histórico; 40% Mexicano, 20% Espadín, and 40% Madrecuixe, distilled in refrescador still; 49.8% ABV), 88/100 Victor Ramos Coyote, Madrecuixe, Bicuixe Agave Spirit (Mengolí De Morelos, Miahuatlán, Oaxaca, bottled by Gusto Histórico; distilled in refrescador still, Lot VR 12 21 CMB; 49.8% ABV), 91?/100 Victor Ramos Tequilero Agave Spirit (Mengolí De Morelos, Miahuatlán, Oaxaca, bottled by Gusto Histórico; distilled in refrescador still, lot VR 07 22 TQ; 51.1% ABV), 87/100 The big shock here was the second ensamble. Holy moly what a spirit: somewhere between pumpkin pie, that insane Mezonte Virgen from a few years ago (   • 40th Birthday Reviews, II: Mezonte Ja...   ), and sauce aroma baijiu, this was one of the best (and weirdest) mezcals I've tried in a long time. If you see it and you're feeling brave, grab it. The others? The Tequilero was in the death seat after Glass No. 5 but still delicious, coming across as a a grungy, gothy variation on a Los Altos tequila. The Tobala was a little bit of a disappointment, being far more restrained than I expect a Miahuatlán Tob to act; the Madrecuixe, to my surprise, was actually far more outgoing. Ensamble No. 1, albeit unable to keep pace with the monster right after it, has a delicious muddy chocolate minty thing going on, and the Tobaxiche is predictably super-vegetal and fat. Amazing, amazing spirits, here's hoping we can keep getting more like them. Extra special thanks to my Different Spirits on Patreon (  / differentspirits  ) - Eric Amig Anthony Darcy Bean Jamie Brown Kingsbury bushcraft William Christopher Clematis Rob D Liam Davitt Joe Devine Samuel Dose Stephen Eckert eon Ingmar nine Steve Frazee Ian Gendler John Halliday Alex Hurd Trevor Jarrait Jonathan Lestingi Kyaru Ariel Mserious Jason Newquist No Thanks Chris Rhodes Randy Rice RumSquirrel Chris Sherman Gordon W Zach W