Why Climbers Should Care about Contact Strength | Contact Strength Pt. 2 скачать в хорошем качестве

Why Climbers Should Care about Contact Strength | Contact Strength Pt. 2

☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool 🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryb... Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta // SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym! Check them out at: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/ // MORE INFO // For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/ // PRIVATE PT CONSULTS // Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-s... // MEMBERSHIPS // Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:    / @hoopersbeta   // SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) // Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta Favorite on-the-go food: https://bit.ly/3InYwtu Resistance Bands: https://amzn.to/3mRUwFX Crane Scale: https://amzn.to/3wuLDrp Lacrosse/Massage Ball: https://amzn.to/3hot8OD Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): https://amzn.to/2L5F1xa Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): https://amzn.to/38FPG9Q Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: https://amzn.to/3hpC1Yq Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: https://amzn.to/2WS8QE0 Our Favorite Chalk: https://amzn.to/3pqTa6T MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: https://amzn.to/3dAT9ZN BOSU Balance Trainer: https://amzn.to/3ttN88F Body Blade: https://amzn.to/3yY1dwb // TIMESTAMPS // 00:00 Special Thanks to The Wall Climbing Gym 00:11 Skit 01:27 Intro and Context 02:10 Part 1: Contact Strength and Climbing Ability 05:10 Part 2: Contact Strength Protects and Heals You 06:03 Part 3: Should Everyone Train Contact Strength? 09:47 Part 4: Contact Strength in the Real World 12:12 Final Thoughts 13:00 Bloopers // SHOW NOTES // Episode 98 In the last video we establish what contact strength refers to in a scientific sense. And if you know the definition of contact strength, it should be kind of obvious why it’s important for climbers. But in this video, I want to move past the “common sense” reasons and see what the research has to say, because I found some of it to be quite interesting and even a bit surprising. We’re also going to talk about the huge elephant in the room, which is how contact strength in the real world might not be quite as simple as it appears in research. So cinch down those shoes and chalk those sweaty tips, ‘cause we’re about to send it! CONTACT STRENGTH IS CORRELATED WITH CLIMBING ABILITY ARTICLE I First, let’s look at a short excerpt from Levernier G et al in their paper: “Four Weeks of Finger Grip Training Increases the Rate of Force Development and the Maximal Force in Elite and Top World-Ranking Climbers.” If you couldn’t tell from the title, the researchers found that specific finger training increased the contact strength of elite climbers. They concluded that because the window of time climbers have to develop force on a hold is so small, “...increasing the RFD is, therefore, a crucial way to increase performance.” This conclusion is just the researchers’ opinion, but it aligns with the SAID principle. The SAID principle says that each sport imposes unique demands on the body, so to improve at that sport, you should practice the moves that impose those demands. You want Specific Adaptations to Imposed Demands. With climbing, there are often moves where you need to develop a lot of force in a short amount of time. So, according to SAID, you should train in a way that increases your rate of force development. Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/w... // DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program. // PRODUCERS // Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt // FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //   / hoopersbetaofficial   #trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapist