Setting up the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector on a 2012 Volvo XC60 скачать в хорошем качестве

Setting up the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector on a 2012 Volvo XC60

Click for more info and reviews of this Tekonsha Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring: https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V... Check out some similar Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring options: https://www.etrailer.com/fitguidet1.htm Search for other popular Volvo XC60 parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2012... https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe!    / etrailertv   Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-t... Speaker 1: Today on our 2012 Volvo XC60, we'll be having a look at and installing the Tekonsha T1 vehicle wiring harness with four pole flat trailer connector, part number 118739. Here's what our wiring looks like installed. This four pole flat trailer harness gives us the basic lighting functions that are required by law, in order for us to safely and legally tow a trailer. Our white wire here provides our ground connection, which is necessary between our trailer and our XC60. The brown wire is our taillight and running light circuit. And on that wire, we have a total power output of 7.5 amps of power. So if we we're towing a trailer that has incandescent lights, we'll be able to run quite a few of those without having any issues. If we have all LED lights on our trailer, not a problem. We can basically run as many as we want, since LED lights do draw significantly less power than incandescent lights.Now on our yellow wire here, this is our left turn signal and left brake light. Our green wire here, that's our right turn signal and right brake light. Now both of these are separate circuits and on those circuits we have a total power output of five amps per circuit in order to run our turn signals and our brake lights. With only five amps, we should be able to run quite a few incandescent lights and as many LED lights as we want, and won't have any issues. One nice thing is we have this built on dust cover here to help protect it when it's not in use.Now this wiring harness is designed to be stored inside of our vehicle. But I always like to put a little bit of dielectric grease inside these connections before I put the dust cover on. That way when we hook up to your trailer, and if we're towing in the rain, we don't have to worry about moisture getting inside there and casing corrosion. We have an adequate length of wiring harness here, which hangs down right next to our hitch receiver is and we have plenty of slack in it.When we're not towing our trailer and we don't want the wiring outside, it resides inside. Open your hatch on up and you can just store it inside this bin right here underneath your cargo cover. When you want to tow, open it up, drape it onto the side here. Just making sure you avoid your latch for your hatch and it'll close down against the weather stripping and be protected.All right to begin our install, we'll open up our rear hatch. Okay now we'll remove all of our floor coverings. Lift up on the driver's side and the passenger and it comes out. We'll lift out our cover here as well. Now we'll pull back on the covers behind our taillights. Now we'll unplug our taillights. There's a gray tab right here. Push in on it, pull back on your connector. Do the same on the other side. So I've gone ahead and taken a pull wire here. And went through this smaller hole that's close to the carpet on our driver's side below the large hole behind the taillight. And then it comes out underneath our vehicle behind the bumper cover. We'll leave this in place for right now. We'll use this to pull through our power wire later.Now we'll take our T connector here, that has a yellow wire on it. Slide it underneath the panel. Just take our hand down through the hole, pull it on up. These are keyed, so they only match up one way. The male will go to the female end and vice versa. Once they click in place, you know you're okay. Now if we peel back this insulation right here and pull it up a little bit. We'll find an existing ground wire for our vehicle. We'll need to ground out our white wire to the vehicle's sheet metal. We can do that by using the self tapping screw but that would involve putting another hole in our vehicle. If you remove this bolt right here, which is a 10 millimeter. We can stick it through the ring terminal of our ground wire and reinstall it. Utilizing existing factory ground, which works properly.Okay now the black wire that comes off of our module, that's our power wire. We'll stick a provided yellow butt connector over that black wire and we'll crimp it on down. Now our spool of black wire, we'll strip back some insulation from one end. Stick that in the other end of the butt connector. And we'll crimp that down as well. Now from this point forward any wire that I have that is connected with a butt connector, I'm going to wrap an electrical tape. This will just help better protect the connection from any moisture or