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峨眉山市,四川省辖县级市,由乐山市代管。隋开皇三年,置峨眉县。1985年6月,峨眉县隶属乐山市。1988年9月,撤销峨眉县,建峨眉山市,由乐山市代管。峨眉山市因山得名,文化底蕴深厚,旅游资源丰富,有峨眉山、大佛禅院、大庙飞来殿、报国寺等著名景点。大多旅客到峨眉来,基本都只去景区游玩,很少有人踏足市区。这一次,我没有去景区游玩,只是在峨眉的老城区待了几天,却经历了一场超出预期的体验。 峨眉市区的物价没有被旅游业影响过多,与大多四川小城保持着差不多的水平。老城区还保持了千禧年的风貌,看着一些老式的建筑,会让人恍惚间回到了过去。大概是因为老城区面积不大,所以人流都比较集中,以农贸市场、喷水池那一片为主。 夏日的清晨,农贸市场早早就被人群挤满。除了市场的正规摊位以外,附近的街头小巷也是天然的交易场所。而下午和晚上的喷水池附近,就是人们休闲娱乐的人气聚集地,美食众多,在这里闲逛需要一个强大的胃。令人欣喜的是,在市区还有着一条保存完好的老街,人们在这里喝茶、打牌,好不惬意。而在大佛禅院的背后,还有一个老厂区旧址,这里还住着一些居民。在阳光和蝉鸣声中,老去的建筑已布满藤蔓,已看不清曾经的辉煌。 峨眉山市区给我的感受,就像许多西南小城曾给我的一样,松弛、温暖、有人情味,保持了一些旧的生活与节奏,让人莫名心安。 Emeishan City is a county-level city in Sichuan Province, administered by Leshan City. Established during the Sui Dynasty in 583 AD as Emei County, it was placed under Leshan’s administration in June 1985. In September 1988, the county was upgraded to Emeishan City. Named after the famous Mount Emei, the city is rich in cultural heritage and tourist resources, featuring sites such as Mount Emei itself, Giant Buddha Chan Temple, Feilai Hall, and Baoguo Temple. While most visitors only explore the scenic areas, few set foot in the urban center. This time, I skipped the famous sights and spent a few days in the old town—and was treated to an experience beyond my expectations. Prices in the city have not been overly inflated by tourism, remaining similar to those in most small Sichuan cities. The old town still retains the feel of the early 2000s, with its vintage architecture evoking a strong sense of nostalgia. Due to its compact size, activity is concentrated mainly around the farmers' market and the Fountain Pool area. On summer mornings, the market is packed early with crowds. In addition to the formal stalls, the surrounding streets and alleys also serve as natural trading spots. By afternoon and evening, the area near Fountain Pool becomes a popular gathering place for leisure and dining—a true paradise for food lovers, though exploring it requires a resilient stomach. Delightfully, a well-preserved old street remains in the city center, where locals drink tea and play cards in a relaxed, cheerful atmosphere. Behind the Giant Buddha Chan Temple lies the site of an old factory complex, still inhabited by a number of residents. Bathed in sunlight and cicada songs, the aging buildings are now covered in vines, their former glory barely visible. Emeishan gave me the same feeling as many other small southwestern cities: relaxed, warm, and deeply human. It holds onto a slower pace and an older way of life, bringing an inexplicable sense of comfort.