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☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool 🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryb... ⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store 📧 For business inquiries: [email protected] IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES: 👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-s... 🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/coaching 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES: ➡️ Gear: $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=... 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10" 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affil... REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk ➡️Performance: 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": https://macrofactorapp.com/ ➡️Gyms: The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/ Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental! WHO ARE WE? Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links! ⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro and what to expect // SECTION 1: Why? // 01:21 Why boulderers should care 02:36 Why not just train strength instead? // SECTION 2: Endurance Training Options // 03:16 Overview of Training Options 04:08 BOULDERING: Continuous ("circuiting") 05:03 Circuits Pros and Cons 05:33 BOULDERING: Intermittent 06:40 Which is the better on-wall method: continuous or intermittent? 07:03 Why choose on-wall vs off-wall? 07:29 HANGBOARD: Overview 08:38 HANGBOARD: Continuous (Not Recommended) 08:53 HANGBOARD: Intermittent ("Repeaters") 09:53 When is a set of repeaters complete? 11:04 CAMPUS BOARD: Continuous and Intermittent 12:18 How do I modify the intensity on a campus board? 12:52 ROPE CLIMBING: Overview 13:45 ROPE CLIMBING: Continuous and Intermittent 14:25 Which is better for endurance: top rope or lead? 15:01 How many laps should I do for top rope sets? 15:49 BONUS! TINDEQ PROGRESSOR: Critical Force Protocol // SECTION 3: Programming recommendations // 16:45 So... which method should I choose? 17:40 Why no talk of energy systems? 19:35 How long should endurance sets be in general? 20:10 How intense should endurance sets be? 21:00 How many endurance sets per training session? 21:47 How much rest should I take? 23:02 When in my session do I do endurance training? 23:58 How many times a week should I train endurance? // SECTION 4: Final tips and tricks // 24:42 Pick the right climbs 25:09 Head to the overhang 25:33 Get back on if you make a mistake 25:53 Key to long-term progress... ⚠️ DISCLAIMER All exercises and recovery programs are to be performed at your own risk and should not be perforemed if you think you may be at risk of injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program. 🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS vecteezy.com #trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy