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☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool 🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryb... #climbinginjury #climbingtraining #rockclimbing // MORE INFO // For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/ // PRIVATE PT CONSULTS // Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-s... // TIMESTAMPS // Intro & Overview (00:00) Mistake #10 (00:45) Mistake #9 (01:20) Mistake #8 (02:06) Mistake #7 (02:53) Mistake #6 (03:52) Mistake #5 (04:42) Mistake #4 (05:37) Mistake #3 (06:30) Mistake #2 (07:42) Mistake #1 (08:38) Outro & Bloopers (10:43) // SHOW NOTES // 10. Not Trusting “The Plan” Listen, this is a real one. And I get it!! I totally do! Say you’ve got an eight week recovery plan, but on week four you haven’t noticed any progress, so you get discouraged and give up. I mean no one wants to spend a bunch of time doing rehab exercises that don’t work, right? I gotta tell you, there is a level of “faith” that has to be placed in a rehab process, just like with a training process. The reality is you may not see the results you want after four weeks, BUT you may have been perfectly on track to heal up in eight. Don’t give up! If you have a plan, stick to it. If someone helped you or made the plan for you, communicate with them! Like many issues in life, giving up won’t solve anything. Have faith in the plan and keep the lines of communication open. 9. Ignoring Your Limits We’ve all done it: you think “don’t go climbing” means “just don’t do anything too stupid. Maybe I’m a V7 climber so I can climb V4 fine.” Now, listen, our bodies are pretty smart. They are able to communicate with us when we aren’t feeling perfect. But, the brain is even more powerful. Hell, you could break your ankle and run on it if you were being chased by a bear. So it’s also very possible you could ignore signs of pain or discomfort because your brain prefers climbing over not climbing. Unfortunately this will likely just lead to a setback in your recovery. So, you need to set personal limits and respect them. If you don’t like that idea, simply remove yourself from the temptation altogether so you can finish your rehab process. For example, if you know that a “light climb” is likely going to turn into a full on session of try-hard limit bouldering, either make sure a buddy knows to tell you to stop, or just don’t go to the gym or crag in the first place. Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/t... // DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises. // SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) // Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta Therabands: https://amzn.to/3mRUwFX Lacrosse/Massage Ball: https://amzn.to/3hot8OD Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): https://amzn.to/2L5F1xa Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): https://amzn.to/38FPG9Q Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: https://amzn.to/3hpC1Yq Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: https://amzn.to/2WS8QE0 Our Favorite Chalk: https://amzn.to/3pqTa6T // IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS // Plan: https://www.vecteezy.com/free-vector/... Planning Vectors by Vecteezy Strong: https://www.vecteezy.com/free-vector/... Human Vectors by Vecteezy Bandaid: https://www.vecteezy.com/free-vector/... Bandaid Vectors by Vecteezy Old: https://www.vecteezy.com/free-vector/... Old Man Vectors by Vecteezy Calendar: https://www.vecteezy.com/free-vector/... Calendar Vectors by Vecteezy Workout: https://www.vecteezy.com/free-vector/... Human Vectors by Vecteezy Sloth: https://www.vecteezy.com/free-vector/... Lazy Vectors by Vecteezy Camera: https://www.vecteezy.com/free-vector/... Video Vectors by Vecteezy Hand: https://www.vecteezy.com/free-vector/... Human Vectors by Vecteezy Two People: https://www.vecteezy.com/free-vector/... Chat Vectors by Vecteezy // PRODUCERS // Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS) and Emile Modesitt // INSTAGRAM // / hoopersbetaofficial / emile166