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自十多年前开始旅行以来,我已多次到过云南,却从未踏足滇东南。去年冬天为了逃离成都连日的阴雨天,我一路向南来到了红河州——终于,追上了太阳。这次旅程走了四个城市:蒙自、个旧、建水、石屏。这些地方与我印象中的云南有些不同——少了些旅游城市的喧嚣,多了些本地真实的生活气息。 不同于云南的其它旅游城市,初到蒙自,可能会觉得有些平淡。但在这里待上几日,便能体会到它的魅力。每周日的海边寨早市,规模宏大,逛得人既欣喜又眼花缭乱,各种地道小吃、奇特山货,有许多是我未曾见过的。 在这里,时间是缓慢的。蒙自老城区的街道还保留着上个世纪的氛围,走在街头,恍惚间像是回到了千禧年。在老城区吃一碗菊花米线,晒着太阳,在巷子里闲逛。慢悠悠地走着,就能来到南湖公园。西南联大旧址、海关旧址、瀛洲亭就在附近,这些历史建筑在阳光下见证了蒙自的过往。阳光懒洋洋地照着,好像一切阴霾都不存在了。 Since I started traveling over a decade ago, I've visited Yunnan many times but never set foot in its southeast. Last winter, seeking refuge from the overcast days in Chengdu, I headed south to Honghe Prefecture—finally catching up with the sun. This trip took me to four cities: Mengzi, Gejiu, Jianshui, and Shiping. These places felt different from my usual impressions of Yunnan—less of the tourist-town hustle, more of the genuine local life. Unlike other tourist destinations in Yunnan, Mengzi might seem unremarkable at first. But spend a few days here, and its charm unfolds. Every Sunday morning, the Haibianzhai market bursts with life—so vast it's both delightful and dizzying, with local snacks and wild mountain products I'd never seen before. Time moves slowly here. The streets of Mengzi's old town still carry an early-2000s atmosphere; wandering through, you might feel you've stepped back in time. I'd start the day with a bowl of chrysanthemum rice noodles in the old quarter, soaking up the sun, then meander through the alleys. Eventually, I'd reach Nanhu Park—where the旧址 of the National Southwestern Associated University, the old customs house, and Yingzhou Pavilion quietly bear witness to Mengzi's past under the lazy sun. Here, it feels like no gloom could ever exist. B站主页:https://space.bilibili.com/593971360